Want to do an oil change on my 2011 jetta but can't find straight up answers..

Discussion in 'VW Mk6 Golf, Jetta, Beetle, Sportwagen TDI forum' started by Bennyrz, Jan 13, 2017.

  1. Bennyrz

    Bennyrz New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2013
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    Car:
    2011 jetta tdi
    Went to canadian tire and the gal helping me didn't seem quite sure which oil I need(drivers manual only lists what oil for the gas model), at first she was showing me 5w-30's then 5w-40's...
    I was also told I need a special wrench to do the job, she said something about looking at the cap and seeing what kind of shape it was eg hexagonal? I have access to a shop i can do it in but was told they won't have the specific wrench I need.
    Tldr: looking for a straight up answer as to what type of oil i'll need and what special tools.
     
    ron planiden likes this.
  2. Keithuk

    Keithuk Super Moderator

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    Car:
    2010 Golf GTD (170) CBBB
    Location:
    Stoke on Trent, England
    When I did my oil change last year I go to my dealer for a oil filter, sump plug and oil. The oil he brought out the spec said 10W/40 I said the spec supposed to be 5W/30. He said VW had changed the spec. I asked why, he didn't know.

    Now the drain plug is an hexagon which is either 17 or 19mm its been a while so I can't remember the size exactly. I'm told from other forums the new drain plug is a internal Torx.

    The sump plug is stupid it has a steel washer not Copper, Aluminium or Fibre so how does that seal properly.

    Oil filter 071 115 562 C - £8.58
    Sealing bolt with sealing ring - N908 132 02 - £2.62
    Drain plug 22 ft lbs (30NM)
    Filter casing 18 ft lbs (25NM)
    Oil 5W/40 Quantum Platinum 5 litre - ZGB 115 QLB 00 521 - £39

    I used a 32mm single hex socket to remove the oil filter plastic cap.
     
  3. TDI Hoo

    TDI Hoo Member

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    Car:
    2010 Golf TDI
  4. mikeme

    mikeme Active Member

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    Car:
    2009 JSW TDI
    Location:
    Northern Virginia
    Nice DIY.

    http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/e...vw-jetta-golf-sportwagen-tdi-and-audi-a3-tdi/ is also helpful

    for reference, I could not get a topside extractor (smaller Pela, in my case) to get more than 3 liters of oil out. I do use the extractor to remove old oil from the oil cooler, which sits under the oil filter, and is easy to get to with the extractor while the oil filter cap and filter are removed.

    it is really a good idea to pull the plastic cover under the engine and look at the thing. (check for missing parts, leaks, small rodents taking up residence, dropped tools and other wonders)

    You did not say where you live. (but the canadian tire reference is a hint.)

    north american cars need different oil than those sold elsewhere.

    mine needs 5w30 full synthetic low saps oil, specified as VW 507 00.

    if you live in the far north, there is also now available a 507 00 compliant 0w30 oil


    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009OMYAQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    is one helpful tool. lets you use a long 3/8 inch extension to remove and later snug the oil filter cap.
     
  5. Keithuk

    Keithuk Super Moderator

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    2010 Golf GTD (170) CBBB
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    On mine I used 1/2" drive with a 12" extension with a universal to remove the oil filter cap. I did use a 1/2" to 3/8" convertor for the torque wrench.
     
  6. mikeme

    mikeme Active Member

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    Car:
    2009 JSW TDI
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    Northern Virginia
    [​IMG]

    on my car, that hard coolant line sits almost over the filter cover. the socket I referenced, lets me route the long extension between the coolant line and the intake manifold, without any universal. I also found that a 3/8 drive torque wrench covers the correct spec for snugging the cap back on. in general, universal joints do not directly transfer the applied torque. the angles get in the way. not the end of the world, but I like the way the socket built for the job works.

    the first time I did this, I used a huge half inch drive socket, and ended up removing the clip that holds the skinny coolant hard line to allow access. really not the best way.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2017
  7. ron planiden

    ron planiden New Member

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    Car:
    2013 vw jetta tdi
    Location:
    bc
    I do my own oil changes on my 2013 jetta tdi. It strictly says you need an SAE 507 specification in the oil. I could not buy that oil at any Canadian tire or Wal-Mart stores. Very few automotive shops carry that product. I ordered my oil from Amazon.com for my 2013 jetta tdi, its a Castrol synthetic 5-30 with the number 507 specification on it. Good price and don't make a mistake, buy your oil filters there to, its surprisingly how much cheaper it is if you buy in bulk.
     
  8. Ol'Rattler

    Ol'Rattler Well-Known Member

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    Marysvile, WA.
    There is no such thing as an "SAE 507" sec.
     
  9. ron planiden

    ron planiden New Member

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    Yes there is. It is clearly written on a yellow decal near the radiator when you open up the hood. The engine oil needs to have an SAE specification 507 other wise you can have a serious engine failure which could cause an accident. When you buy this oil, it is in fine print under SAE specification recommendations. I use this on my 2013 Jetta TDI.
     
  10. Keithuk

    Keithuk Super Moderator

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  11. mrblah

    mrblah Member

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    Car:
    VW JSW 2014 TDI 6sp
    Location:
    Montreal, Qc
    Interesting specs!

    In the 507 specs I can read:
    Should people with DPF delete in their TDI run this oils instead? I'm just curious...
     
  12. Keithuk

    Keithuk Super Moderator

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    But you haven't got a V10.
     
  13. andykurz

    andykurz New Member

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    Car:
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    PA
    507.00 is a VW spec, not an SAE spec. 507 is a low ash formula designed to lengthen the life of the DPF by preventing buildup. So, if you've deleted your DPF, 507.00 spec isn't going to benefit you. I've been running Rotella T6, which is NOT 507.00 spec in my 2010 TDI sportwagen for about 30k miles (car has 130k). I'm not advocating that YOU should do that, but I do. I'll be turning the car in soon anyway. :(
     
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  14. ron planiden

    ron planiden New Member

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    Location:
    bc
    Thank you for correcting me on the SAE standard and 507 spec that VW demands. I just tried to make a point that one should keep that spec 507 in mind. I expressed it basically for warranty purposes, because now a days if you would get an engine failure during the warranty period that it would not be covered if one used an oil that never had that spec in it. They do take samples of the oil in those circumstances. In my own real opinion all oil comes out of the same barrel.
     
  15. andykurz

    andykurz New Member

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    Car:
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    PA
    Ron I wasn't replying to your post but went back and read it and completely agree. If you are trying to make a warranty claim, you better well be sure you are using a 507.00 spec. Once you are out of warranty period, you are free to make your choices.

    Anecdotally, I now use Rotella T6 in everything I own and it has been just excellent in every application. I race motorcycles where clutches can be sensitive to oil and use T6, run a Cummins tow vehicle which uses many gallons of T6, use it in lawn mowers and generators and on and on. Really an excellent oil and can be had as low as $15/gal. What I found most surprising, however, is that Shell said specifically to a customer (the thread is on this forum), that Rotella T6 is not 507 compliant and they don't recommend it for that application. The difference in ash content is negligible to me so I am willing to take the risk. Before Dieselgate, I would have deleted the DPF anyway if it clogged up. It is really nice to have one oil in the garage and use it for everything.
     

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