Hi all, first ever post, want to try to give a little back to the team that gave me some great fix info. Going to put this in bullets for ease of typing/reading. -Issue: low power - thought was constant, no CEL -Bought an OBD dongle and tried Torque Lite - got me the P1403 code -Upgraded to Torque Pro to monitor EGR Commanded vs Actual -Alas! These two aren't among the sensors reported by my ECU... -Read a bunch, resigned myself to having to clean the intake manifold/EGR -Realized at this point I was dealing with limp mode not constant low power, not sure if my dash CEL is out but it didn't come on for the P1403 code stored in the ECU. -Inspected and found little intake buildup, picked checking the solenoid before the EGR valve based on this -Checked resistance - 17 ohms (~800mA, seemed about right) -Checked with external 12V connection, could hear/feel it was moving at least somewhat -Disconnected vacuum supply hose near the injectors and the output hose at the EGR end -Wasn't sure if vacuum was transmitted when the solenoid is activated or deactivated - fired it with 12V and tried to suck air through from the supply hose - no-go in both cases (no vacuum to EGR!) -2x 10mm nuts to remove the soenoid *Solenoid Repair Where I live my options were: PartsSource-$350, Davenport-$230 or mailorder from RockAuto-$120 (all approx), so . . . At this point I'm going to apologize for no pics, occurred to me near the end of the job, I'll do better next time! The solenoid is two halves; the big blocky coil end and the round end with two of the connections (supply and load/EGR) Each of these halves has a round flange, and these two flanges mate together and are held by the metal crimp ring Pry the crimp ring open with a small flat screwdriver on the coil side, try to damage as little as possible, until it can be removed Separate the two halves, I tried blowing through the vacuum supply port but it was plugged Inside the solenoid the vacuum supply port comes out the end of a small diameter brass tube in the centre - the end of this tiny tube was visibly plugged I started with a #70 and worked up to a #62 drill to clean out the tube; due to the small diameter not much air moves through but enough to notice! Reassemble components and work metal crimp ring back into position I used two blocks that were taller than the ports end; flip the unit over (ports end down), rest the 'shoulders' with the crimp ring on the blocks and clamp down to a surface - this pushes and holds the crimp ring in position Use whatever pliers will reach to re-crimp the ring back under the coil-end flange so the unit will remain together All done - no codes and again have that full 90HP to throw me back into the seat : )) In all sincerity, many thanks to those who spent countless hours adding to this great site, thanks to you all I'm significantly deisel-smarter now than I was before. Cheers!!