Discussion in 'VW Mk4 Jetta, Golf, New Beetle, Passat TDI forum' started by almir, Jun 12, 2011.
Thanks for the reply.
So it just needs some clean up...?
Because I haven't used it much this year..
yes most likely you have some rust buildup, try cycling it on and off 5-6 times at highway speed (2000 rpm or more) it should clean itself. Let me know if it works
I tried it a couple times yesterday and a few more times today, but it still makes the sound. If my car is idling with the ac on it's even louder...
Sorry did not understand you the first time, I was thinking that you hear noise without clutch engaged. Once clutch engages it should stop rattling if the problem was gap that was too close or if you had some rust buildup. Did you check for any play in the clutch?
Just checked my instructions for ac coil replacement if you can check picture 6/12 and zoom it little better you might be able to read the bearing number, then you can simply search anywhere on the net for best price. Or get Timken or SKF bearing brands with same dimensions. the number I think should be the same. Also the clutch plate shouldn't be very expensive so you can order that too
Thanks for the reply.
I did and I can't read the number I'll have to look around online...
Although this is an old Thread (and very helpful), I have a question relating to the Alternator removal.
Why does the Alternator need to be removed?
Original post was referring to a 2005 BEW engine... the compressor placement is different on an ALH... no alternator removal required on those...
All the best,
Thanks for the reply! I kept trying to determine what model vehicle and sort of come to the conclusion it was obviously different than an ALH.
Yep, the coil fried on the AC unit in the Vanagon last Friday evening...... I've got the end piece off, just getting the pulley to break loose seems to be a challenge at the moment!
Hello all..I'm trying to removal the coil from an old compressor I have because the one my girlfriends car is burned out and I want to change them. However, I'm having major problems.
After I remove the nut that holds the clutch on, the clutch is seized onto the shaft. It is NOT easy to remove and will NOT budge. I tried to pry on it and mangled the face of the clutch. If I'm going to do this on my girlfriends car, I need to get it off right without mangling the face of the clutch.
What's the trick to making this easy as everyone says it is, am I missing something here?
Remove the nut..then the clutch just "falls off/comes off easy".. according to the DIY. Would anyone care to elaborate, or explain why mine seems like it's seized on?
Excuse my frustration here..
The clutch hub is attached to a splined shaft... occasionally (well, often, if you're in the rust belt) it will rust in place... some penetrating fluid should help... the manufacturer recommends using a special puller... I'd say you should just do things slowly and carefully - paying attention to which surfaces you're prying... I believe that the outer part of the clutch is attached via (somewhat) flexible spring-type plates... pry on the inner hub if you can reach it...
Greeting May i ask what is the dimension of shim between pulley and clutch?
replace it all.. they only burn up when the insides have issues.. aka locks up/gets tight causing the clutch to burn up..
Can the car be driven if I just remove the clutch? Helping a former foster kid with his '01 Jetta TDI. He brought it to the house because it was making a noise. I loked and saw that the center part of the clutch mechanism (that you can easily see from the outside) is just loose and wobbly. We would prefer that it not go flying off at some point and break something, so it seems that if I can just remove the center bits he'd be good to go for now until he can save enough to repair properly. I'm thinking from reading this that it would be essentially a matter of removing that 15mm nut and pulling it off.
nope.... last thing you want to do is shred the belt, its pieces get sucked into timing belt, it will ruin engine... and seen it happed
If the outer part of the A/C clutch (the part where the belt rides) isn't loose, but only the central shaft wobbles, are you saying that it's unsafe to remove the inner clutch plate? I've seen a few cars running without that plate... are they all asking for trouble?
imo if it wobbles, it also cooked the bearing in that part... one piece uses magnetic force to hold the other.. so the heat transfered.. to me its not safe in idea that if belt gets eaten.. you gamble on broken timing belt... bolts on bottom, easy to remove and put a used junk yard one on it.. cost n risks go way down that way, if $$ this tight.. can you afford the gamble?
then go visit a garage to get it vacumed down, but not filled with r134 unless you can afford it.. but a succy succy to give it a vacum in the system removes the moisture from changing the part..again.. do not have to do it right now if $ tight, but a 6 pack or offering to buy them lunch, its 20 min of a tool hooked up to the car that took under 5 min to install or pay attention too.. works wonders i buy my local guy lunch, homaid cookies and crap to bribe a mechanic to work for 5 and eat for 15... it will cost me 50 lunches before i gt to ac tool prices.. got him lunch 3 times now
i buy freon/r134 from big lots... single cans $7 and when on sale 2 for $10 and you only require 2 cans.. it takes 2.5 cans... but why waste 1/2 can or risk of overfilling which causes more issues then stopping at 2 cans..
Around here they're asking about $75 to evacuate a car's A/C system... (and shouldn't you also replace the receiver/dryer?) On my car, it's not wobbling... the shaft broke during removal of the nut holding the clutch plate...
Sorry to bump such an old thread but I went to change my ac clutch today and its so broken it spins separately from the ac compressor shaft. The pulley, clutch and compressor shaft are all spinning independently so I don't seem to have anyway keep the shaft from moving when I try to remove the retaining nut. Has anyone had this happen before or have any suggestions on how to keep the shaft from spinning so I can remove the nut. It also wouldn't come loose with an impact gun.
I assume this write up does NOT work for the Mk4 BEW Golf TDI?
ill look to make sure tomarrow when im doing a cam inspection on the one that was towed in last night (guy fried the starter night before he thinks he has a turbo issue and makes black smoke... 240k never had cam job or inspection ).. but i beleive the clutch for a bew is built inside the compressor.. no servicable parts
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