Discussion in 'Mk5 VW Jetta, Sportwagen, and Audi A3 TDI forum' started by spectre, Aug 22, 2017.
Can I use the advanced method to remove the cam on a brm tdi engine
Yes. I did...
Did you just replace the camshaft with a kit, did you replace the timing belt and water pump if you did the cam kit only did you do it without taking the engine timing cover off and just mark the sprocket to keep it in time to me it looks that it could be done let me know thanks John
Thanks I am new to the forum so I may be sending out redundant msgs. but I would like to know did you change the cam and keep the engine in time by marking the cam sprocket and not taking the crankshaft cover off to me it looks like it can be done very easily.
I did use a kit, although I was unhappy with it. The description of the kit said it came with lifter bolts and cap bolts, it only came with cap bolts. When I contacted the seller, they just said "oops" and changed the description. So I had to go buy the lifter bolts separately.
I was planning to do a complete timing belt job as well, but if you read the instructions carefully, it recommends waiting until you have the valve cover back on before releasing the motor mount due to dirt etc. It was about 25,000 miles early for the timing belt and honestly it did not seem so difficult so I figured I would do that later. I found I needed to take the lower timing cover off so I could get to the tensioner to reinstall the cam sprocket. The cam sprocket is adjustable on the cam so marking it and the belt is fine for getting the sprocket back aligned with the belt but since the sprocket can spin I would say 20 degrees give or take on the cam, that is not nearly accurate enough.
Thus you need the locking tools and the sprocket removal tool. They really are necessary. I did have a few problems along the way, mostly due to my cam locking pin not fitting properly. Once I fixed that, it all was smooth sailing, not a hard deal at all.
I would also add the tutorial on this site is extremely accurate, follow it and you will be golden.
Did you lock the crankshaft when you changed the cam I have bought the metalnerd timing belt tool kit and it has the crank and cam locks included I have been reading the tutorial and I also find it excellent and everytime I read it I learn something new my cam went bad at 188ooo miles when did yours go I have had a lot of problems with the car dmf transmission clutch change antishudder valve, alternator, ac compressor, radiator, I bought it new and did all the service items I really like the car and love the fuel mileage I hope this is the last of my big problems.
In the advance method, you don't lock the crankshaft, you rotate the cam 90 degrees from TDC (which corresponds to a 180 degrees on the crank). I guess you could lock it in the advanced location while you remove the cam but I don't think it is really necessary. But you do have to time it when you roll it all back to TDC, which requires locking crank and cam.
I read the "how to" at least 10 times, every time I gleaned some new tidbit of knowledge. But to be honest, once i committed to just doing it, it was not really very hard. Take your time, check each step twice before you turn anything, make sure you are really turning what you think you are turning - and take your time. The strongest suggestion I can make is turn the engine over by hand and make sure nothing is hitting before you start the engine. Better to take the extra time and be sure nothing is in the way!
You forgot a very crucial part. First you rotate the crank 90 degrees CCW from TDC to put the pistons midway in their stroke so that they are well out of harms way of the valves. This gives you the ability to turn the cam anywhere you want independently of the crank for the advanced method and for adjusting the injector lash.
When you are ready to reinstall the belt, you pin (lock) the cam and then turn the crank 90 degrees CW and pin it.
And really, the lower cover is not all that difficult to remove. The danger of not using the crank tool and correctly following the procedure is that you could slip a tooth or 3 and not realize it which could cause you to have a costly and a real bummer of an experience when you hit the key to start it.
I will have to go re-read the instructions, I was working by memory and I don't recall rotating the crank independently of the cam as I am interpreting you to say there. Thanks for noting that and I will go look again! My only comment though would be the source of truth is the writeup, not my attempt to paraphrase.
Do you have to take the harmonic balancer off to just change the camshaft or to lock the crank shaft can you lock the crankshaft with the harmonic balancer on and is there a way to tell if the eng is at tdc other than looking at the crankshaft timing marks on the jetta which tab on the cam shaft sprocket is for tdc the thin one or the wide one.
How did you tell that the crankshaft was at tdc were you able to look at the timing marks on the crankshaft or did you pin the camshaft and sprocket did you have to take the harmonic balancer off at all.
Holly crap. Just remove the 4 bolts that attach the H/B already. The crank tool will not work with the H/B in place. If you use the advanced method, you have to move the crank 90 degrees CCW and lose TDC on the crank anyway.
Engine timing is one of those things you NEVER want to get wrong and following the procedure without taking shortcuts makes it 100% certain you will be golden every time you do a cam and/or T/B.
Almost forgot. IDK if there are visible TDC marks for the crank with the H/B on. I've never bothered to look because the crank tools gives you a level of accuracy that can't be matched with the human eye.
Just to let you know the cam was replaced and works great my son in law supplied the muscle it took us about 7 hrs. Thanks for your help
Finished the cam replacement took about 7 hrs. my cost was about $850.00 that included the cam kit and the special tools. Thanks for your help
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