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2014 Porsche Cayenne Diesel oil change - DIY at 5600 miles

33K views 26 replies 10 participants last post by  Sword_of_the_Spirit 
#1 · (Edited)
During 20+ years of automobile ownership, I've never bothered to learn to change the engine oil on my own car. Thanks to the egregious pricing of routine maintenance by the Porsche dealerships, I decided to collect the necessary tools and the knowledge on the web. Youtube videos by myturbodiesel.com was one of the most informative.

Here is a comprehensive list of tools and parts necessary to execute the job:

1. Porsche C30 compliant synthetic oil (2 cases, or 7 quarts)
2. Oil Filter
3. Oil Extractor
4. 32mm Socket
5. 3/8 inch drive ratchet
6. Funnel
7. Rubber gloves
8. Hose remover or Screw driver (to release the filter canister O-ring)
9. Two empty gallon milk jugs
10. VW Dip stick (optional)
11. Durametic (optional)
12. Ad Blue (optional)

One observation worth mentioning is that the oil extractor tube goes down rather too easily. Be sure not to push too much it down. The VW dipstick (which is too long by several inches to provide an accurate reading) is a good guide for how far one should go.

I was able to extract and refill ~7 quarts. Cayenne's electronic oil level meter doesn't provide an immediate read of the oil level upon post-refill engine start. A VW dipstick comes in handy to keep the electronics honest.

Finally, we have curb-side recycling of used motor oil and filter in our area. This is a no-brainer DIY job given the the effort and pain involved in booking an service appointment and loaner from the local stealership. Total start-up cost is reasonable and the recurring cost is a fraction of what they would charge. And most importantly, you have the confidence of knowing that the job was done right.
 
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#2 ·
Which extractor did you buy? I thought I'd save the extra work of hand pumping for vacuum, plus I had a brand new 170 psi compressor in the shop. But the one I bought starts sucking air before I even get 6 quarts out. I got the impression that the tubes were hitting some sort of baffle. Hadda go up on ramps to get the last 2 quarts out from beneath the car.

And given that the engine oil capacity is spec'd at 7.7 quarts (7.3 liters), it would seem you either your oil level was low to start - or you left some in the pan like me. Last oil change I put in a full 8 quarts, so I decided to see how much was was still in the "empty" containers. When allowed to drain completely, the stuff left inside 8 bottles totaled 0.3 quarts - pretty much confirming the 7.7 quart capacity.

//greg//
 
#3 · (Edited)
I used the Mityvac 7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR7TC/?tag=jisge-20). Its capacity is large enough to perform a Cayenne Diesel oil change in a single shot and has a cool reversible switch to dispense the dirty oil into an external empty container while the engine is being refilled with clean oil.

I don't worry about the residual dirty oil left behind in the engine. Post-refill, the electronic oil level indicator reports one incremental level of oil level higher than where it started which was at dead middle of the four increments. From what I gather, the art of oil refilling is like the game of Price Is Right, get close as you can, but never over. :)
 
#4 ·
I don't worry about the residual dirty oil left behind in the engine.
I do. The contaminates left in the pan are in your fresh oil within seconds of starting the engine. But it's your car. The other advantage to making sure it ALL comes out, it to avoid the electronic dipstick issue. Once you are positive that all the old oil is out, you can safely pour 8 new quarts of fresh oil back in. Subtracting the 0.3 quarts of oil that clings to the inside of 8 otherwise empty quart bottles, the actual amount you put in is the 7.7 quarts needed to get the oil level correct from the git-go.

//greg//
 
#6 ·
Do any of you open up your hood, then close it, then start the motor, then shut it off for 2 minutes, then read what your oil level is at, immediately before doing an oil change? That might have an effect as to how much oil you should expect to remove.

2013 Touareg TDI's in the 1st 10 k miles can be a bit of an oil burner... I do not know if this applies also to the Cayenne Diesel, but it is the same Gen II motor family.

A bit of the run down on the motor history...

http://www.natef.org/NATEF/media/NATEFMedia/VW Files/3-0L-V6-TDI-Engine.pdf
 
#13 ·
Completed oil change in 2013 Cayenne Diesel.
Filled with 8 qts. Reading on the VW dipstick (as recommended above) shows over filled.
Dashboard Oil level indicator suggests "Minimum Oil Level Has been Reached"
I don't want to add any more and cause a bigger "overfilled" problem.
Thoughts?
Thanks, Pete
 
#15 ·
Are u guys changing your oil every 5k miles or 10k miles? Curious as all of the VW TDI's I've owned all day to change oil at 10k mile intervals. And I believe the Audi Q5-7 3.0 diesels are at 10k miles. Curious why the same motor in the Porsche has to be changed at 5k miles? Thanks
 
#21 ·
Everything I've read is the motors come from VW/Audi and are identical..like I said the only thing I can think of different would be a tune. Still not sure why the difference in service though. I'll look up HP and Torque numbers and see how close the Cayenne and Q5-7 are.
 
#24 ·
Are u guys changing your oil every 5k miles or 10k miles? Curious as all of the VW TDI's I've owned all day to change oil at 10k mile intervals. And I believe the Audi Q5-7 3.0 diesels are at 10k miles. Curious why the same motor in the Porsche has to be changed at 5k miles? Thanks
My brother's theory is that the difference is... most Porsche owners will pay the ridiculous cost for a dealer oil change every 5K.

My 2014 Cayenne has 135K on it. I bought it from my ~70-something parents: They went to buy a Volvo XC90 and the trade-in offer was ridiculous (even by the ridiculous standard of trade-in offers). They told me about it and I said "Hell... -I'll- buy it off you for $1,000 over that!"

They bought it new and most of the mileage on it is from cross-country treks: they frequently traveled from their east coast home to their west-coast 'winter digs.' Dad drives in a 'spirited' manner, and especially when it was new I know he had it out pushing it on the twisties. After his first change (at the dealer), he did the rest himself and never changed the oil until 10K.

I'm telling you all that to tell you this: I've had a borescope inside, and it looks pretty pristine in there. No other indications of a 'problem'. Other than whatever they used at the first change at the dealer, it's always had Mobil 1 ESP 5w/30 in it.

I just changed the oil myself (1K after I got it, about 9K since last one), and the oil came out typically-diesel-black, but not otherwise seeming over-aged. Viscosity was good, no excessive particulates or metal shavings to note.

Granted, that's on a car with the VAST majority of its mileage from long-range highway driving. My 2c...
 
#26 ·
VW Touareg manual says oil change every 10k . Porche has it at 5k . Only difference I see is the brand of oil. VW is Castro’s and Porche is Mobil 1. Engines are the same . Is this going to effect the Porche since I used Castro ? Need help guys. I’m thinking it is ok but you guys are more knowledgeable than me.
 
#27 ·
Tune and different mapping via Sport. Have to remember many engines share nearly the exact same components, yet the tune will dictate a different engine characteristic. Porsche has rightly determined spec oil degrades and harmful byproducts find their way in the oil. Take a look at the 10k oil changed VW/Audi guys now sitting with 7+ Cam retarding due to chain stretch. TDIClub under the Toureg section has a gent that opened one of the VW's up and it was not a pretty sight chain wise.

Do your motor a service and change at 5k with spec oil or find a new variant to put in to get you to 7.5-10k
 
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