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I had the same issue with my 2012 Passat TDI. I was checking prices on a new auxiliary pump when I came across this forum. Decided to check the brown wire before ordering the pump and found the brown wire off the connector. Spliced the wire using marine grade connectors and heat shrink and cleared code P023A. Problem solved. Thanks for saving me the cost of a auxiliary pump.
 
Well it has been 3-1/2 months since I repaired the wiring issue. Today the check engine light came back on with the same P023A code. It is showing 3 codes read one pending and 2 that are permanent. What is the difference?
I also never checked the fuse last time where/which fuse is for the intercooler pump?
 
Just had the same fault. I checked connecter per Larry57, bingo! Exactly where he said the connecter was and the brown wire was disconnected. I called VW customer service, explained the situation and that this forum had 4-5 people with the same issue. Customer service said they would add the complaint, but would not cover the defect repair at this time; however, he said if the dealer determined it was a defect they could call to get reimbursement. I'm going this route to see how it turns out. He also stated reimbursement would be paid if a recall came out if receipts are kept. I know this is probably a long shot, which sucks since it's CLEARLY a VW defect. I hope other people call in this defect so there is more of a chance for a recall. I know, wishful thinking.
 
Well it has been 3-1/2 months since I repaired the wiring issue. Today the check engine light came back on with the same P023A code. It is showing 3 codes read one pending and 2 that are permanent. What is the difference?
I also never checked the fuse last time where/which fuse is for the intercooler pump?
I'd go back to your fix first - soldered wires in that situation have stresses focused right where the soldering on the wire stops. Breaks there, frequently. Also, possibly a cold solder joint (how are you at soldering outside upside down?) Vibration and air are your enemy, heat shrink or no. I find some additional non corrosive flux helps. Crimps only work if they're tight enough to be AIR TIGHT. A splash of the fluid of your choice in a not-tight crimp will ruin the connection eventually.
frank
 
I'd go back to your fix first - soldered wires in that situation have stresses focused right where the soldering on the wire stops. Breaks there, frequently. Also, possibly a cold solder joint (how are you at soldering outside upside down?) Vibration and air are your enemy, heat shrink or no. I find some additional non corrosive flux helps. Crimps only work if they're tight enough to be AIR TIGHT. A splash of the fluid of your choice in a not-tight crimp will ruin the connection eventually.
frank
Thanks for the help. Took the car in for recall issue and had them run Diagonostics . Came back as open circuit in harness. So It was my bad fix. They wanted $420 plus the $110 for diagnotics to fix. I said No!!! So round two I am going to pull the wires out of the harness and connect new longer splices. Any suggestions on proper techniques to prevent this from happening again. I crimped the original splice then soldered the brown ground wire to metal harness internals. I used a wire I had from an old trailer harness. It was about 1 gauge larger than the chinese crap they use. Thanks again for the help
 
Thanks for the help. Took the car in for recall issue and had them run Diagonostics . Came back as open circuit in harness. So It was my bad fix. They wanted $420 plus the $110 for diagnotics to fix. I said No!!! So round two I am going to pull the wires out of the harness and connect new longer splices. Any suggestions on proper techniques to prevent this from happening again. I crimped the original splice then soldered the brown ground wire to metal harness internals. I used a wire I had from an old trailer harness. It was about 1 gauge larger than the chinese crap they use. Thanks again for the help
Damn, it's nice to be right once in my life! ;)

In all seriousness, I've had excellent results with things called Posi-Locks. A touch expensive, but absolutely reliable (use them on my M/C) - good with multiple wires and a variety of wire sizes. Here's where I first found out about the product line.
http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-motorcycle-products/posi-lock/posi-taps.htm.
There are waterproof versions available as well. I've also added, in some situations (I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy, if you know what I mean (anal)) where I add a dielectric grease which seals out the air. Light bulb grease might be a better substance, should you decide to go that way.

As far as wire - always multi-strand, oil resistant insulation, and more strands in a given wire gauge are better (read more flexible). IMO, trailer wire seems to be quite stiff. YMMV.

I like to support the Posi-Lock with a wire tie around the actual device to either another wire or non-moving part, and then 2" away on each of the wires. Immobile wires cause far less issues...

If you don't like the ground you have created, use the Posi-Tap "T" connector to tap a known good ground.

Just for the sake of argument, those cheap crimp pliers just don't make an adequate crimp in most cases.

The best part about the Posi-Locks is that the entire thing can be disassembled when/if you need to do other maintenance.

I keep a small kit on the bike as emergency tools.

Best to you, ScottH1
frank
 
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Thank you all and special thanks to Larry 57 and Pwinchell for the explanations and directions. I found that the same brown wire broken, but in my case that wire has been already repaired
by a VW tech. I fixed the wire and took few pictures to share with you. The first picture represents that connector in case you are not sure where is it yet. On the right side from my hand are two radiator cooling fans. On the left side oh my hand is the transmission front cover.

The second picture shows one of places of the old repair and the new broken wire

This picture shows another repair which has been done by VW techs. I'm almost certain that VW knows very well about this problem, but going to make nothing about it.
 
Check engine light, code P023A. 52,000 miles. Seen this post and checked my connector, brown wire pulled away as soon as I touched it. It was not corroded just seemed like it was poorly connected. spliced in new wire bypassing the connector. Four days and no code. Big thanks to Larry 57 and Pwinchell for the explanations and directions.
 
I will go nuts with the white grease after reading this. I spray it on all connectors on my vehicle. Simply caused by salt and crap on winter roads reacting with the copper in the wire where the insulation ends and bare conductor is exposed. Japs don't have these issues!
 
So I got the P023A code this morning. I haven't checked the wire yet but my question is if the loose ground wire is my issue also, would that fix be covered by the 16V171000 recall for electrical connectors? I also have AdBlue heater and temp sensor failures too but I haven't messed with that since the car has been running just fine with those codes for the past year. I'm holding out on the emissions recall before I decide to fix that crap. Plus I am going to have to take the stage 2 tune off before I take it to the dealer for recall work.


Sent from my iPhone using TheChive - KCCO!
 
TDI Passat 2012 here, 107000 miles the same code came up. Was able to clear it but after reading all these posts it seems like an electrical issue. I can't find that pump or its wires. Lots of videos on YouTube but none shows where is actually located. Is it accessible from above or from underneath the car? Do I have to take the underneath cover off to get to it? Many thanks in advance.
 
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